from Rookie’s keyboard,

Hello, friends

The other day, a customer came to return a saddle because it was “too uncomfortable”. That’s not something revolutionary, of course. It happens fairly frequently.

However, sometimes people are unaware that leather saddles have a break-in period.

Meanwhile, non-leather saddles are a “what you feel is what you get” type of product. They are either comfortable or not.

But leather saddles (e.g., Brooks) adapt to the shape of the rider’s sit bones over time.

It’s difficult to come up with a precise number due to the involvement of various factors, but in general, a leather saddle would need at least 400km (248miles) of riding to reach noticeable suppleness.

Shape Is King

The shape of a saddle is more important for comfort than the softness or the adaptability of the material it’s produced of.

A saddle could be made of an alienesque matter, but if the architecture causes instantaneous discomfort then the saddle itself will never be truly comfortable even if you ride with it for a long time.

The same applies to leather saddles. Many people think that there’s a “rite of passage” period during which you have to suffer greatly for a leather saddle to become comfortable.

A leather saddle indeed adapts to your physic and style of riding over time, but if it’s not acceptable initially, it won’t suddenly improve its performance multiple times even if it’s expensive and manufactured by a reputable company.

The Break-In Period

Brooks saddles are made of natural leather and vary in thickness which means that every saddle has a slightly different “break-in” period.

In general, however, most people say that at least 400km (248miles) are needed to see results.

Note: Brooks saddles are not an exception to the shape rule. If a particular Brooks saddle does not feel sufficiently comfortable when you begin using it, then the improvements that you’re going to see over time will be insufficient. If that’s the case, you will have to test a new model.

In the ideal, scenario, the saddle would be comfortable right away and will become even better over time.

Speeding Up The Process

It’s best to stay away from extreme “break-in” techniques (e.g., soaking the saddle in water) because they could needlessly harm the integrity of the leather.

There are many products out there designed to soften leather products, but that doesn’t necessarily make them suitable for this application because saddles are support units rather than clothes.

As far as treatment is concerned, it’s best to stick with products recommended by the manufacturers. For example, Brooks sells the so-called Proofide mixture which improves the waterproof capacity of a saddle and its flexibility.

Another possibility would be beeswax like SnoSeal which offers protective properties without excessive softening.

Ultimately, however, the main purpose of similar products is to protect the saddle from the elements rather than to make it soft.

The fastest and safest way to speed up the “shaping process” is to ride your bicycle.

Make Sure That The Saddle You Choose Fits You

The first step to increasing the chances of finding a comfortable saddle is to first select one that fits you.

The job of a bike saddle is not to be a couch, but to support your sit bones while riding.

Where are the sit bones?

The anatomical term for sit bones is ischial tuberosity and refers to the lower part of the pelvis which supports the body when we seat.

In a standing position, the glutes are contracted and cover the area, but in a seated position the sit bones become exposed. The easiest way to find your sit bones is to place one of your palms under yourself and gently sit on it.

The length between the centers of the sit bones is of crucial importance because it determines the width of the saddle that you need.

A Simple Way To Measure Your Sit Bones

Step 1: Find a large piece of aluminum foil used for cooking.

Step 2: Place it on a low chair. If you don’t have a low chair, put a thin blanket on the first or second stair of a stairway and position the foil on it.

Step 3: Sit on the foil and lean forward to mimic your riding position.

Step 4: Lift your feet slightly.

Step 5: Measure the distance between the deepest impressions in millimeters.

Step 6: Add 25-30 millimetres to the measurement.

This is done because the absolute width of the saddle should be greater than the distance between your sit bones.

Step: 7 Look for a saddle that corresponds to that number.

E.g., If your sit bone measurement is 115mm, then you’ll need a saddle about 143mm wide.

Below is a table containing the most likely size saddle that you’ll need according to the width of your sit bones:

Sit Bones Width	Saddle size
110mm or less	Small
110-130mm	Medium
Over 130mm	Large

Unfortunately, however, this is a general rule and does not guarantee that every saddle that’s technically the correct width for you will be comfortable.

A saddle may have the perfect theoretical dimensions for you and yet still feel unpleasant due to its peculiar shape.

Still, many people are unaware that they ride a saddle that’s too narrow for them and experience relief when switching to one more appropriate for the width of their sit bones.

A Saddle Shouldn’t Be Uncomfortable Even If You’re A Beginner

If a saddle is good enough for you, you shouldn’t be experiencing discomfort at least for the first 30 minutes of riding even if you’re a total beginner.

Note: It’s normal to get sore after a long ride if your body hasn’t adapted yet. This happens even when the saddle is made for you.

How Long Does It Take For the Sit Bones to Adapt?

If your bicycle and saddle fit your body type, it shouldn’t take very long for the sit bones to acclimate to the new stress.

It’s hard to come up with a precise number, but significant improvement should be seen after the first 10-20 hours of riding, although soreness may persist for longer, especially if you cover massive distances.

FAQ: Where should I feel the soreness?

The sit bones should take most of the burden. If the soreness is in a different area, then you may need to readjust your saddle or find a new one.

Also, it’s normal to experience a little bruising and skin irritation due to the prolonged pressure, but it should never be severe.

If the fit is good, the discomfort should gradually disappear as you continue with your cycling regimen. If that’s not happening, there’s a strong chance that your saddle is not good for you.

FAQ: Should I ride when I’m sore?

It depends. If you’re new to cycling, you’ll need more downtime because the body cannot recover without rest. A few off days here and there will be very helpful during the introductory phase.

Nonetheless, there’s no need to be perfectly recovered before your next ride. Some soreness is to be expected. If everything is alright, it should subside as you warm up.

It’s not uncommon to be a little sore at the beginning of a ride and then gradually become more comfortable.

On Saddle Rail Positions

Some beginner cyclists may not know, but a bike saddle can move forward and back. You can regulate it by unscrewing the hex bolt underneath it and then sliding the saddle over the rails.

This adjustment can have a great effect as it sets the position of the saddle underneath you.

In the most common scenario, the saddle would be in the middle. Or in other words, the clamp would be holding the rails in the center. However, this isn’t always the most comfortable adjustment.

If you have a frame that’s slightly smaller for your body, you may compensate for it, albeit to a degree, by sliding the saddle backward.

This is what I do with my commuter. Normally, the ultimate Cross Country frame for me is around 19-inches, but I’m riding a 17.5-inch because I prefer smaller, more agile frames.

If the frame you’re riding is slightly bigger for you, you will have to slide the saddle forward to position it properly.

The length of one’s femurs influences the saddle position too. If you have short femurs, you may have to slide the saddle forward; if you have long femurs you may have to slide it backward.

Here’s the general procedure used to find out the necessary rail adjustment:

Step 1: Adjust the height of the saddle.

At the bottom position, your knee should be slightly flexed.

Step 2: Get on the bike and put one of the cranks in the 3 o’clock position.

Step 3: Suspend a plumb line from the front of your knee. If you don’t have a plumb line you can use a string with a weight attached to it.

Ideally, the line would be right over the axle of the pedal.

If it’s not, you’ll have to move the saddle forward or backward to achieve the proper alignment.

Soft Saddles Are Not Always Comfortable

Saddles with wide springs and five layers of gel inserts may look incredibly comfortable when you’re off the bicycle, but once you get on the plot changes.

The job of a bicycle saddle is to support your sit bones rather than to be a soft comfortable chair.

Extra padding increases the surface area and the so-called “chaffing” effect. As a result, the skin gets irritated as the ride progresses. Hence why most saddles on high performance bicycles are designed in a way that limits the contact of the saddle with soft tissues.

Don’t be surprised if you find out that the most comfortable saddle for you is one that looks incredibly uncomfortable when you’re off the bike.

Note: If you want extra padding, it’s significantly better to just wear shorts and bibs than to buy a saddle resembling an office chair.

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Until next time,

Rookie