from Rookie’s keyboard,
Hello, friends
It’s time to talk about geometry…somewhat. I decided to make a post explaining the effect of elevated bars (a.k.a. risers) and spacers (the little rings that go under the stem) on a bike’s performance.
Here are the main points:
Riser Handlebars Do Not Reduce The Effective Reach
First, let’s explain what this confusing term “reach” means.
It’s simply the horizontal distance between a vertical line going through the middle of the bottom bracket and another one “slicing” the head tube in half.
The reach determines how stretched you are on the bike.
More reach = more stretch
But if you use spacers to raise the handlebars, they will decrease the effective reach because the head tube and consequently the fork’s steerer insert at an angle.
More spacers require a longer fork steerer. The longer the steerer, the closer the handlebars get to the saddle. And the rider is more “squished” on the bike.
The intensity of this effect is determined by the head tube angle of the frame. The head tube angle is the angle formed by the head tube and the ground (image below).
The slacker the headtube angle, the smaller the cockpit will be when using spacers.
Modern MTBs come with a slacker head tube angle than previous generations, and the cockpit may therefore decrease significantly.
This decrease could be minimized by installing a longer stem to compensate for the reduction. However, the longer stem may have an unwanted effect on the steering.
If you ride an MTB with a short stem and get a long one to compensate, the steering won’t be as sharp on technical terrain.
Meanwhile, riser handlebars do not decrease the effective reach.
If you want to keep the original cockpit while still elevating the bars, it’s recommended to avoid multiple spacers and get the extra height via bars and/or a stem with a greater degree of rising.
NOTE:
The steerer tube on which the spacers slide is NOT vertical to the ground. Therefore, the risers’ height does not fully translate to a vertical increase.
For example, 30mm of spacers do not equal 30mm of elevation. If you want a 30mm rise, you will need more or taller spacers.
But the rise that one gets from riser handlebars translates fully. Riser handlebars with a 30mm rise will elevate the grips by exactly 30mm.
Looks
Risers are more aesthetic than a nerdy stack of spacers. If the appearance of your bicycle is important to you, spacers lose to risers every time.
Minor Downsides
The rise of riser bars is unchangeable. If you are not satisfied, you will have to buy a new unit.
Spacers give you flexibility. You can remove or add units to decrease or increase the height of the handlebars any time you want (as long as the steerer is long enough to allow it.)
One Handlebar Model
Elevating via riser bars limits you to one handlebar type whereas elevation based on spacers allows you to use all kinds of handlebars.
Flexibility
Spacers aren’t aesthetic but give you flexibility and freedom in the search for the most comfortable handlebar position.
People who share bicycles may also find this property appealing.
Affordable + Easy Installation
Spacers do not cost a lot of money and can easily be added or removed.
Higher Resale Value of The Fork
Once the steerer is cut, there is no going back. T
If you let the steerer tube longer than needed and use a spacer to make up for the dead spot, the bike and the fork will have a higher resale value thanks to the additional customization.
Personally, I can’t tolerate more than 1…maybe 2 spacers for aesthetic reasons. If I want taller grips, I would choose one of the following options:
- Ger risers with a higher rise
- Get a stem with a more aggressive angle of elevation
Note: If you are using a quill stem, you can just elevate it more (as long as it’s within the safe range).
Until next time,
Rookie
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